How To Fix Clear Coat Bubbles
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Bubbles in clear- Sand and recoat?? Hello, i was polishing the hood I painted yesterday and found an expanse with what looks like tiny bubbles which had the tops sanded off. Is that solvent pop? Can I sand information technology with 600 grit and recoat. It is PPG 2042 Speed clear. Volition the recoat fill the tiny bubbling? Cheers,
Diane
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Diane- Before sanding w/ 600 & re-clearing (which will evidence 600g scratches), I'd go some other route. If you lot have plenty film build in your clear, 2-3 full moisture coats, I'd recommend moisture sanding due west/ 1200 then 1500 & polishing. Certain beats re- clearing.
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I agree with jimmy if the pops are in the articulate and not all the way down to your base so you lot could maybe sand them out with some 1000 grit then some 1500 dust and buff it out, and thats the route I would go if they are not that bad and only in the elevation layer of clear and not all the way downwards to the base, only so again the more you sand the more than clear y'all remove equals less UV preotection so sometimes if you lot have enough clear to re-shoot the panel then that can exist the all-time route just depends on the defect or imprefection your dealing with.
To answer your question if the clear is a high solids clear and the pops are in the articulate and not the base so yes it should fill them if y'all were to level them and re-employ another glaze of clear.................
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When you get solvent popular, it usually starts at the bottom, right at the color coat. So, the chances of y'all getting it all the style out earlier you hitting color are most cypher.
The question is, how perfect exercise you lot need this chore to exist? If y'all're doing your ain auto then the question is, can y'all live with it. It's non going to effect the lifespan of the paint if you continue the car make clean and polished and about people wouldn't be able to run across what you lot're talking about if yous put their nose right next to.
On the other hand, if you lot're a pro and you know yous've screwed up, then your integrity and reputation are at stake so, you're probably going to cease up stripping all the mode down to base coat, re-shooting base, then clearing again. Of course, you could e'er ask your customer if they'll take the piece of work the way it is. I'm picky but I'd let information technology slide if it wasn't likewise bad because seriously, the dust that lands on the pigment in the start five minutes after a wash is more meaning than a little solvent pop in most cases.
Good Luck,
Robert
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Diane- I strongly disagree w/ Robert. Solvent pop is usually on the top surfaces of the final coat (either single stage or Clearcoat). It'southward acquired past solvents evaporating at the wrong charge per unit. Too much, or not enough airflow, wrong temp. reducer, not enough flash time & besides much material per glaze can cause popular. If I read your post correctly, it's not on the entire hood. Could be high material build on an overlap surface area. Try to sand & polish.
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I just dealt with a hood that I "popped" because I was using a clear I wasn't familiar with (ppg btw).
I disagree on 2 points fabricated above, the solvent pop I've seen over the years was all the way to the base of operations as was this latest hood. BTW this happens more with hoods and roofs because there is footling hazard of runs so y'all tend to pour on the articulate more than side panels.
Yeah you can cake it downwardly with 600 and reclear , just be conscientious as usual to avoid cutting to the base. Some folks do this to perfectly good clear to become a deeper expect and cut out some of the "urethane wave" effect on hi picture show build glamour jobs. Sand scratches won't be an upshot with 600.
Ray
Last edited by casey; 08-26-2006 at xi:08 PM.
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Distressing Casey. If solvent pop was all the way to the base- why wouldn't the subsequent coat fill up in the pin holes on the get-go coat? Likewise- top surfaces pop more considering most spray berth'due south pull more than air beyond horizontal (top) surfaces resulting in quicker drying of hoods, roofs & decklids.
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Originally Posted by JimmyPtr Sorry Casey. If solvent pop was all the way to the base of operations- why wouldn't the subsequent coat fill in the pin holes on the first coat?
Considering the subsequent coat is what causes the pop , blocking the evaporation path for the solvents below it.Why does the same affair happen when dwelling garage jobs (no booth) get pop then? Down draft booths pull all the air nether the machine yet i've never seen a rocker panel popular :confused: Originally Posted past JimmyPtr top surfaces pop more because nearly spray booth'south pull more air across horizontal (top) surfaces resulting in quicker drying of hoods, roofs & decklids.
Ray
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Ray- the subsequent coat opens the motion-picture show from the bottom coat- allowing solvent to rise to the superlative. Truely trapped solvents outcome in blisters or bubbles in the final, cured glaze. Garage jobs that have pop are the result of NO air flow (run into orig. post) & also wet of an application. Tons of rocker panels have pop- you lot merely don't come across them like a highly visible, apartment, top surface. Also, 600 dust under clearcoat hasn't been recommended since high solids clears were introduced ten years ago. Mfg'south recommend a scuff paste w/ a gray Scotchbrite or 1200 grit when clearing or blending over existing articulate.
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I've never had a problem reclearing over 600 scratches merely that may vary depending on products used.
Well-nigh of the "popular" problems that I've had (it's been awhile) were cause by improper solvent for the environment OR heating the surface earlier the solvents have escaped. I heated the surface one time by pulling the car into the sun to go information technology to cure faster and caused it to pop.
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Len- you're right on the Pop. Popular is caused by solvents moving faster (or sometimes slower) than the correct cure time for the paint. Too much air flow pulls the solvents out too fast, as does exposing wet flick to heat (pulling in the sun). The cool matter these days is that high solid clears (55%+) have little solvent & can exist exposed to high temps. quickly. (less solvent-less solvent popular) Sherwin Williams has 2 clears 930 & 950 than can exist broiled as before long as you go out the booth & hit the bake bicycle. No more purge time before kicking on the heat. Both those clears are recommended over 1200 grit (or gray scotchbrite) scratches.
- I think it's a no brainer .
What have you got to lose ? Sand it downward as sugested and run across what you have.
Worse case you just redo the complete hood. Who knows maybe you volition exist lucky.
Mooch
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Well in the interest of not dragging this thread waaaaay off the posters question I should but agree to disagree. The scuff pad with paste/1200 is for blending (ane blending coat) non reshooting the panel.
in endmost hither are some excerpts from Duponts troubleshooting transmission on pinholing/ pop, I bolded some of their words, detect especially their set , sand smooth and reshoot , you can't sand pops flat with a scuff pad, or 1200 for that thing, you block it down with 600~800 and reshoot but like shooting over base , 2 wet coats (with proper flash this time).
Quite a few guys in our local car gild practice this when wanting to apply four or 6 coats of articulate to continue it apartment while getting deeper look , no sandscratch issues at all.What they don't say in cause 4 is that using too short flash times is equivalent to using too slow of a solvent , either way traps the solvents of the lower coat , subsequent coats don't reflow the outset coats , they will melt in and bond but they don't reflow the pare on the lower coat.
Pinholing, solvent retents, pock marks, pitting, pops, pin pricks
Description
Tiny holes or groups of holes in the finish, or in putty or primer, normally the issue of trapped solvents
Causes / Origin
1. Improper surface cleaning or preparation. (Moisture left on primer-surfacers will pass through the wet topcoat to cause pinholing.)
two. Contamination of air lines. (Moisture or oil in airlines volition enter paint while being practical and crusade pinholes when released during the drying phase.)
3. Wrong gun adjustment or technique. (If adjustments or techniques result in awarding which is too wet, or if the gun is held also close to the surface, pinholes will occur when the air or excessive solvent is released during dry.)
iv. Wrong thinner or reducer. (The use of a solvent that is too fast for shop temperature tends to make the refinisher spray too shut to the surface in order to get adequate flow.) When the solvent is as well wearisome, information technology is trapped by subsequent topcoats.
Solution
Sand affected area down to smooth cease and refinish.
Ray
- Funny but that statement says likewise fast OR besides slow. I've never had solvent pop caused past ho-hum thinner unless the paint is applied then heated causing it to dry on top before the solvent is released from the lower layers. Again this tin can cause pop from fast or slow solvent.
iv. Wrong thinner or reducer. (The utilize of a solvent that is too fast for store temperature tends to make the refinisher spray too close to the surface in society to get adequate flow.) When the solvent is as well slow, information technology is trapped past subsequent topcoats.
Here's a 500x moving-picture show of solvent pop.
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<<Well in the interest of not dragging this thread waaaaay off the posters question I should only agree to disagree. The scuff pad with paste/1200 is for blending (1 blending coat) not reshooting the console. >>
Ray, blending is not 1 coat. Blending procedure is prepping the next (blend) panel w/ scuff paste, 1200 or Scotchbrite. You then blow colour on that console equally you're spraying the other panel. Bring that colour into the blend panel (2-3 coats) & and then clear coat -min. ii coats- both panels. You tin't alloy w/ ane glaze. Not enough moving-picture show build to concord up. Sanding w/ 600 & clearing the blend panel will upshot in visible scratches in clear over existing OE clear.
Every bit far every bit the guys in your Car Social club- show me 1 major paint company that recommends 4-vi coats of articulate.(remember-paint companies dearest to sell more paint). That much film build automatically voids any unsaid warranty & is detrimental to life of whatever paint chore. Take the fourth dimension to visit a quality store. No one is clearcoating over 600 g scratches.
How To Fix Clear Coat Bubbles,
Source: https://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?2871-Bubbles-in-clear-Sand-and-recoat
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